The quality and complexity of the coffees is unparalleled, as is the theoretical knowledge. Gerben Engelkes is the boss in (almost) all areas. With Groningen hospitality and home-roasted beans, Black & Bloom tops the list this year.
Two years ago, Black & Bloom debuted in second place on the list. Last year owner Gerben Engelkes took a 'match break' to come back better than ever this year. He improves his techniques year after year, and also develops in breadth by roasting his own coffee since January this year. And with success: there is only one company that is undisputed number one in the Coffee Top 100, and that is Black & Bloom.
We said it two years ago and repeat it now: if coffee were a science, Gerben Engelkes would be a professor. Nowhere else did the jury find so much theoretical knowledge about the product, the preparation and the machines. Engelkes knows how to combine that deep theoretical knowledge with fantastic black coffees and quirky, Groningen hospitality. He showers guests with technical terms and facts, meanwhile stoically brews the coffee, which he then presents with his typical Gerben grin.
Burn yourself
Last May, Engelkes came fourth in the Dutch Brewers Cup, with a home-roasted coffee. He was very proud of that, because he has only been burning himself for such a short time. And now he can be proud again, because that home-roasted coffee also earns him the first place in the Coffee Top 100. To put it the Groningen way: it could be less. That roasting, on a Giesen W6 at a different location, is bearing fruit: in a good week, 32 kilos of home-roasted beans easily pass through the mill. Engelkes supplements its own roast with coffees from Caffènation or other Northern European roasters.
His espresso machine, a 2-group Synesso Hydra with custom made wooden handles and paddles, may be the heart of Black & Bloom, but Engelkes' newest pride is the mill. The Mythos One from Victoria Arduino, a grind on demand grinder, has a cooled grinding chamber to keep the temperature constant. A sensor determines how strong the cooling should be. Engelkes' father was an ice cream maker, Gerben's wife Karin is a pastry chef. These crafts are reflected in the shop, in the pastry for the coffee and in cold coffee drinks with homemade vanilla ice cream. In addition to the affogato, Engelkes also makes cold drip with the Hario drip tower, which he serves with ginger ale, and he makes cascara fizz: infusion of cascara (dried pulp of the coffee berry) with sparkling apple drink.
Black & Bloom has to compete against ever-expanding competition. In the Oude Kijk in 't Jatstraat alone, nine (!) coffee shops have been added in the past year. 'I often see the owners here a few times, and then half of what I serve is also on the menu there,' says Engelkes, slightly incensed. But none of that competition has the home-roasted coffees of Black & Bloom, and no one has the fine pastries of his wife Karin in the display case either. And no one serves such fine filter coffee.
filter coffee
From day one, Engelkes has only been serving filter coffee as black coffee. No americano or long black and certainly no lungo. Stubborn? Perhaps. But at least this entrepreneur dares to choose, and whoever chooses is chosen. His guests know it and come back for it. And we would like to heartily recommend every coffee entrepreneur in the Netherlands to travel to Groningen for the filter coffee from Black & Bloom. Because the main jury is silent for a moment when she tastes the filter coffee that master of science Engelkes prepares on the Kalita wave and then falls steeply back with the flavors. 'This is technically very good, the best filter I've tasted in ages', is the jubilant jury comment. The Kenya Nyeri Kanchogo PB buzzes with aromas: floral, sweet, fresh, with hints of rhubarb, berries and vanilla. And that is exactly the description that Engelkes gives. What he promises, he more than fulfills in the headline. 'This is the season for Kenyan coffees', Engelkes teaches. "They're at their best now."
He gets the coffee for his espresso from neighboring Ethiopia. The Guji Shakiso has sweet aromas of ripe fruit and vanilla, citrus notes of bergamot and the spiciness of cardamom and bay leaf. 'The balance is very nice. One more please!', the head jury notes. Engelkes prepares his espresso with naked portafilters, so that a double shot is always made. He does stop it at 36 grams, which makes it actually a double ristretto. The mouthfeel is creamy and thick, the taste exciting. 'Coffee from the Guji region is very fresh. A daring choice, which works out very well', says the main jury. "This is the best espresso at the top of the rankings."
In 2014 Black & Bloom could have been number one in the Top 100, Engelkes then screwed up with his cappuccino. Even now it is not great. Visually fine, with beautiful latte art. But the foam is too thin in structure and does not bind optimally with the drink underneath. 'Gerben is especially good at his black coffees, that's where his heart seems to lie', is the jury comment. He makes the cappuccino with espresso from Ethiopia Yirgacheffe Cheleletku-1, roasted by Caffènation. The taste shows through the milk nicely: fresh yellow fruit such as apricot and peach, lavender and cloves. Acidity and freshness in the espresso are nice, but the taste lacks some tension. But after this small critical note, the main jury exhausted itself in accolades about the business, the coffees and the entrepreneur. Gerben Engelkes' knowledge and love for the profession are unparalleled, as are his coffees. And so Black & Bloom is rightly number one in the Coffee Top 100 2016.
Judgment of the jury
Black & Bloom was visited in the jury round by Thomas Klaphake, director of coffee roaster De Eenhoorn in Kampen. He is lyrical about the coffees of the Groningen coffee bar and gave almost the maximum score of 100 percent. His verdict: 'The taste of the filter coffee is fresh and clean, the smell is fresh: coffee pulp and lime. In the espresso, the taste balance between sweet, almond and fresh acid is unsurpassed, the mouthfeel is phenomenal. The cappuccino is visually beautiful, has a good temperature and is delicately sweetened by the milk; a candy. Gerben Engelkes writes the word 'quality' as 'quality time': he takes a lot of time to prepare the coffees.'
Source: https://www.missethoreca.nl/
Black & Bloom attended the Horecabeurs Noord Nederland 2015 and participated in the North Dutch Barista Championships – NNBK.nl
More info: www.hbnn.nl
Vfor the entire Coffee top 100
https://www.missethoreca.nl/cafe/artikel/2016/9/ranglijst-koffie-top-100-2016-101245194
Black & Bloom
https://blackandbloom.nl/
Old Look in 't Jatstraat 32
9712 EC Groningen
Opening hours:
Mon – Fri: 08:30 am – 18:00 pm
Sat: 09:00 AM – 18:00 PM
Sun: 11:00 a.m. – 17:00 p.m.